Colouring. Session 1

• Hairdressing
• Higher Education (non-degree)

What do you already know about colour?

Lesson objectives

•  Recreate the colour wheel - Explain the difference between a primary colour and secondary colour
• Describe the difference between a depth and tone
• Explain where these tones sit on the colour wheel and how the colour wheel is used within hairdressing.
• Describe the difference between Eumelanin and Pheomelanin 

Keywords

•  Primary colour
• Secondary colour
• Depth
• Tone
• Eumelanin
• Pheomelanin

207 - The art of colouring hair

Exam date - 24th March at 1pm

Task

On your tables, discuss what you think the following are:

• Primary colour
• Secondary colour
• Tertiary colour

Be ready to feedback to the class.

Primary Colours

They are the source of all other colours. 

Primary colour cannot be made by mixing colour together.

Secondary Colours.

Secondary colours can be made by mixing primary colour together.

Basic colour wheel

The basic colour wheel shows our 3 primary colours and 3 secondary colours.

What is the main use for the colour wheel in hairdressing?

Neutralising colour tone

The main reason for using the colour wheel in hairdressing is to identify tones which neutralise (cancel) each other. At level 2 this is used when highlighting and also used within colour correction at level 3.

We can also use it to identify colours which COMPLIMENT each other.

In your groups, recreate the colour wheel.

Tertiary Colours

In the same way mixing primary colours together gives you secondary colours.

Primary and secondary colours can also be mixed to create tertiary colours. 

There are six tertiary colours.

Now add the tertiary colours to your colour wheel.

Warm vs Cool

Depths and tones

Describe the difference between a 'Depth' and a 'Tone'

Depth vs Tone

Depth - How light or dark the hair is.

Tone - The colour that we see (Red, Gold, Brunette etc)

Wella Depths

Most manufacturers will have have a 1/ or a 2/ not both. The reason for this is the human eye cannot see the difference between black and darkest brown.

Most manufacturers use the same numbering system when describing depth, this is known as the International Colour Chart (ICC)

Wella Numbering system

Wella uses a numbering system for both its depths and tone. 

In your groups, discuss the different numbers Wella uses to describe tones. Complete the relevant section on your worksheet.

Wella Tones

On your colour wheel, plot where you think each tone sits.

Task

Using the information we have discussed, complete task 2 on the depths and tones handout.

Toning pre-lightened hair

What are the 4 main principles that we need to identify during our colour consultation?

Colouring principles

Natural colour

Artificial colour

Target colour

Percentage of white hair

Natural colour pigment

Natural colour pigment is put into two categories:

• Eumelanin
• Pheomelanin

Read through the information sheet provided, highlight the key information and summarise the importation in the box.

Eumelanin

Eumelanin is cool toned, and is made up of predominantly blue and green tones. Eumelanin is responsible for black and brown hair. Eumelanin are large molecules and are the first to be broken down during the lightening process

Pheomelanin

Pheomelanin is warmer toned, and are predominantly yellow, orange and red tones. 

These are smaller molecules than eumelanin, meaning they are the hardest to remove. 

Yellow is the smallest, and is the last tone to be removed from hair.

Underlying tone

All depths of hair have an underlying tone. The underlying tones is the Eumelanin and Pheomelanin in the hair. 

These underlying tones are exposed when you start to lighten hair. You loose pigment in a certain order:

• Blue and Green
• Red
• Orange
• Yellow

Underlying Tones

Lightening curve

We use the lightening curve to show what colours are exposed at each depth. 

It is important to know how many levels of lift we are trying to achieve to help determine what colour we will need to neutralise with.

How many tertiary colours exist?

1. Five tertiary colours
2. Four tertiary colours
3. Three tertiary colours
4. Six tertiary colours

What can secondary colours be made from?

1. Mixing primary colours together
2. Mixing tertiary colours
3. Using only primary colours
4. Using only neutral tones

What are primary colours?

1. Secondary colours
2. Tertiary colours
3. Source of all other colours
4. Made by mixing other colours

Which colour is not a tone?

1. Platinum
2. Gold
3. Red
4. Brunette

What does 'depth' refer to in hair colour?

1. How light or dark the hair is
2. The percentage of white hair
3. The type of artificial colour
4. The colour we see

Which tone is Eumelanin primarily associated with?

1. Yellow tones
2. Cool tones
3. Warm tones
4. Orange tones

What is the last tone to be removed?

1. Yellow
2. Red
3. Blue
4. Orange

What are the two categories of natural colour pigment?

1. Red and Yellow
2. Eumelanin and Pheomelanin
3. Cool and Warm
4. Light and Dark

Keyword Spotlight

•  Primary colour
• Secondary colour
• Depth
• Tone
• Eumelanin
• Pheomelanin

Describe one of the keywords from todays session in your own words.

What you must know...