Colouring lesson 4

• Hairdressing
• Special Education

Colouring lesson 4

Lesson objetives

•  Recall the hydrogen peroxides used and their purpose.
• Be aware of the problems that can occur when colouring and how we would rectify them.
• Analyse and explain some case study scenarios to develop your colour knowledge.
• Be aware of the factors that will impact your colouring service. 

Do now task

1.9%

6%

9%

12%

4%

Weak solutions.

Used to neutralise and tone.

Used with Quasi colour.

Gives one shade of lift.

Used to cover 100% white hair.

Gives 2 shades of lift.

Gives 3 shades of lift.

Weak solution used with permanent colour to darken the hair

List some different colour problems that could occur

Problems

• Hair is too yellow
• Uneven colour result
• Poor coverage on white hair
• Skin staining
• Over processed result or deterioration of hair condition
• Product seepage

Task:

In your groups, discuss the causes for these problems and how you could resolve them.

Can you list the different factors which need to be considered when colouring hair

Factors

■ client requirements

■ lifestyle

■ hair length and density

■ hair condition/results of hair tests

■ existing hair colour and previous services

■ skin tone

■ percentage of white hair

■ temperature

■ contra-indications.

How does temperature effect the colouring process?

Effects of temperature

Warmer or cooler temperatures can have an effect on colouring

development times. 

Warmth speeds up development times and

lightening products develop more quickly under heat. 

Cooler

temperatures, on the other hand, increase development time.

Can you list the contra-indications which could effect a colouring service

Contra-indications

History of pervious allergic reaction

Other known allergy

Skin disorder

Incompatible products

Medical evidence or instruction

Evident hair damage

Recall what ICC stands for.

Explain why ' Tint doesn't lift Tint'

Explain the term 'Emulsify'

Emulsify 

Is the process of adding water and massaging the colour out of the hair before rinsing. This helps break down the colour molecules and ensures even removal.

Explain what aftercare you should give to your client.

Aftercare

• You might need to recommend lifestyle alterations to your client, to ensure both the colour and condition of the hair are preserved. This might include advising wearing a hat on sunny or windy days, or warning about the effects of chlorine on hair colour. 
• Chlorine can cause hair to dry out and become brittle, the colour to fade and even a colour reaction. You might recommend shampoos that remove chlorine from the hair, and additional shampoo and conditioning products that will enhance the colour and improve durability. 
• Excessive use of electrical heat appliances will also cause the colour to fade and the hair to lose condition. You should advise your client appropriately and suggest regular conditioning treatments.

What are the main principles of colour selection?

Principles of colour selection

• Natural colour
• Artificial colour
• % of white hair
• Target shade 

Case study 1

• 2 levels of lift needed.
• 9%/30 vol needed.

Case study 2

• Permanent colour as long as the hair is virgin.
• 6% / 20 vol needed for 1 level of lift.
• If the hair is coloured, you would need to pre-lighten.

Case study 3

• The ends need to be re coloured if the condition allows – then use a ashy toner on the hair with a low level peroxide.
• If the condition wont allow – the client needs to be taken down to the base of an 8 or lower and use an ashy quasi colour.

 

This client has just had all her hair lightened. Her roots are a base of a 10 and the mid-lengths are an 8. She wants to be more of an ashy blonde. What would you do?

Explain what COSHH stands for?

COSHH

You must always adhere to all health and safety Act, but during a colouring service you must pay particular attention to the Control Of Substances Hazardous To Health (COSHH) Regulation 2002.

When mixing, using and applying colours, make sure you follow:

The manufacturer’s instructions

Local by – laws

You salon’s policies and procedures.

This includes wearing personal protection equipment (PPE) and SHUD

SHUD

S – Storing chemicals and substances correctly

H – Handling chemicals and substances correctly

U – Using chemicals and substances correctly

D – Disposing of chemicals and substances correctly

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