What did we cover last week?
Last week we covered
Practical assessment criteria
What you need to know
Consultation:
Information you needed to find out
Contra actions
Tests
Today we will cover
Factors
Tools and equipment
Different perming lotions
Winding techniques
What can you remember from last week?
Tell me what you should find out at consultation
What part of the hair are we checking when we carry out a porosity test?
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
What part of the hair are we checking when we carry out an elasticity test?
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
How do we carry out a development test curl?
What is the ratio of peroxide to perm lotion when carrying out an incompatibility test?
10:1
15:1
20:1
25:1
What are you checking for when you carry out an incompatibility test?
Factors
Factors
There are many factors you must take into account when deciding on the type of wind and the perm lotion.
In your groups, research 3 of these factors and tell me:
1) why the factor is important to perming
2) what adjustments you would make
3) possible consequences of not making adjustments
Client requirements
Although the client might know what they want, you must find out if
a) what they want is achievable and
b) if what they want is suitable for their hair.
You may have a client with an inspo picture where the hair is long and abundant resulting in lots of curls. However, your client may have very fine hair which only just hits the shoulder. It is your job to explain to the client why it is not achievable and guide them to a style which is more suited to what you have to work with.
By not taking this factor into account you have the possibility the client will end up with a style they .
Lifestyle
Similar to client requirements, but you are finding out if HOW they live their life makes what they want to have done suitable for them.
For example, a client may want a spiral wind because they do not have very long to do their hair in the morning and think a spiral perm will be a low maintenance style. The reality is a spiral perm takes a lot of work to look "easy". This means the perm they want would not be suitable for their lifestyle
By not taking this factor into account you have the possibility the client will end up with a style they cannot manage.
Movement required
When speaking to the client, you should be thinking about the size of curl needed to achieve the desired look. As a general rule, hair should go round a perm rod 2 1/2 times to create a curl. The more hair that wraps around a perm rod, the curlier the hair will be.
The wind you select is also important as it will impact on the amount of curl. Hopscotch and piggy back give a varied amount of volume due to some rods not being placed at the root. If a client wanted a look with lots of volume/movement at the root, this these winds would not be suitable
Not thinking about this could result in a result that either has too much movement (curl) or not enough.
Cut and length
haircut and length will determine the winding technique you use. The length of the hair will also impact winding time and the amount of product used. This should always be considered when quoting a client and booking the appointment. Length can also impact the spring in the curl. Very long hair can pull a curl down, especially if the client has little to no layering. You need to consider if cutting length is going to make the perm look better, and then make recommendations to the client. Hair with short layers could end up looking curlier as the hair jumps up
Not considering cut and length can result in a client being annoyed they have been charged more than stated on a price list. It could also cause the perm to look less or more curly than expected.
Density
Density is more much hair a client has. This should always be considered when selecting your winding technique.
A client with very sparse hair you would ideally looking to make their hair look thicker and with lots of texture. Piggy back is a great technique for sparse hair as it allows you to put double the amount of rods in. Hopscotch is also good but remember this will create some curls with a little root drag.
Abundant hair will take longer to wind and potentially longer to perm. Perming can make already abundant hair look even thicker. Double wind is a great technique for abundant hair as it creates tighter curls through the ends but looser ones through the top, avoiding lots of volume.
Not considering the density of the hair at consultation could result in a perm which makes sparse hair look even sparser, or abundant hair even fuller!!!
Sectioning size also impacts the end result. Taking sections too big on sparse hair results in minimal curl which can make the hair look sparser than it actually is.
Texture
When we talk about texture we are referring to how each hair feels. is the hair fine, medium or course. Is it T1, T2, T3 or T4.
Very fine hair will develop quicker than coarse hair, especially if it is also porous. Coarse hair may require re-application of perm lotion.
The cuticles on T1 type hair can be very tight, meaning it may take longer for the perm lotion to penetrate into the cortex. Whereas T4 hair hair can have altering number of cuticle layers along the hair shaft, potentially resulting in weaker areas of the hair.
Not taking texture into account could result in under or over processed hair which could potentially cause damage
Hair condition
Taking the condition of the hair into account is very important.
It can impact the choice of perm lotion and whether the hair needs to have a pre perm treatment before being permed.
Failing to take the condition of he hair into account could result in:
Under or over processed hair
Hair damage
Hair breakage
Incorrect curl formation
Hair growth patterns
Perming is one of the few hairdressing techniques where hair growth patterns do not really impact the choice of wind. This is because perming changes the molecular structure of the hair. Perming can tame hair growth patterns until the hair grows.
However, not thinking about how the hair growth pattern will impact once the hair grows through could impact in an unbalanced look to the perm.
Head and face shape
Head and face shape impacts in the same way it does when cutting, styling etc.
Height should be added to round faces through the top of the head to elongate the face.
Width should be create the]rough the sides on clients with long faces.
Failing to think about the head and face shape could result in an unflattering look for the client.
Test results
Test results should always be considered. These will show you if the hair is strong enough to perm (elasticity and pre perm test cutting), if the hair is porous and needs the porosity equalised with a pre perm treatment (porosity test), if there is a skin sensitivity (skin test) or if metallic salts are present (incompatibility test).
It can also show you the degree of curl which could be achieved (pre perm test).
Failure to take test results into account could result in damage to the hair or an allergic reaction.
Previous services: Coloured hair
Previously coloured hair can be permed, as long as necessary tests have been carried out.
Coloured hair is likely to be more porous, so an equaliser spray or pre perm treatment may be required.
Colour fade is likely when perming, especially on vivid colours. You must make the client aware of this.
Failure to take these things into account could result in an over processed perm, an uneven perm result and an unhappy client as their colour had faded without being warned.
Previous services: Perm or chemically straightened hair.
Previously permed hair can be re-permed, but the necessary tests must be carried out first.
Previously permed hair is likely to be more porous, so a pre perm treatment or equaliser spray will be required.
Failure to take this into account could result in damage to the hair, over processed or unevenly processed hair or an uneven curl result.
Existing curl
Perms can be used to reduce curl in the hair, not just to add curl.
You can also use perms to balance out an uneven natural curl.
You will need to think about the size of the rods and the wind technique.
You also need to make sure you inform the client of how the hair will grown through.
Temperature
Temperature will increase or decrease development time.
You may need to use heat when perming resistant hair as this will help the lotion to penetrate into the cortex.
Salon temperature will also impact development time.
Not taking heat into account can cause the perm to be over or under developed.
What do we use the tools and equipment for?
what types of perm lotion are there?
Tell me everything you know about an alkaline perm lotion
Tell me what you know about acid perm lotions
Small amount of ammonium thioglycolate helps to improve reduction efficiency, cuticle penetration and curl formation
How do you think you select the correct perm lotion to use?
what is pre and post damping?
what are the 8 perming techniques you need to know?