colour L3 session 4

• newEditor
• Hair and beauty
• Primary Education

Colour
306 & 410
Session 4

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Last week we covered

Colouring products

• The 5 main colouring products

• The effects of the colouring products on the hair

• Peroxide use

Colouring techniques:

• Combination of colour

• Combination of techniques

• Block colour

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This week we will cover

Colour correction assessment requirements:

• 306

• 410

The lightening curve

• Underlying tone for each depth

• Neutralising the underlying tone

• Why the lightening curve is important for colour correction

Adding and removing colour from hair:

• Colour removers

• Colour reducers

• Pre pigmentation

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Objectives

• List the underlying tone for each depth level

• Identify the neutralising tone at each depth

• Explain the difference between a colour remover and a colour reducer

• Explain what pre pigmentation is and when it needs to be used

Key words

• Pre-pigmentation

• Colour remover

• Colour reducer

Search groovelit and then select join game

The lightening curve

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When carrying out colour correction, it is important to know the underlying tones of the hair.

When are these underlying tones exposed?

The lightening curve

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TASK:

In 3 groups, use the panto cards to visually identify the underlying tones of depths 2-10

The lightening curve

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TASK:

Now use the cards again to identify the colours which neutralise them (you will need your colour star for this). Think back to previous sessions, you may need more than 1 colour to neutralise the underlying tone.

The lightening curve

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TASK:

Now use the Wella shade charts to identify which colours you might use to neutralise. Remember to use colours on the same depth

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Neutralising tone

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When neutralising tone it is really easy to “over tone” meaning the colour can go darker than expected.

To avoid this, you can use 0/00, which will dilute the tone. 0/00 is colourless and can be used to dilute tone. Think of it as white paint. If you had blue colour which you wanted lighter, you would add white. It is the same principle when using 0/00.

0/00 can be found in most manufacturers. Sometimes it is called magic crystal.

Neutralising tone task

Identify the “depth” of the underlying tone on the paper plates.

Identify the colour, or colours, needed to neutralise the tone. Do you need to mix with white (0/00)

Neutralise the tone to create a flat colour.

REMEMBER: You are using pure tone, so be careful with how much you mix!!!!!

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Colour Assessments

306

• 1 colour correction assessment covering ONE of the following:

• Base too dark

• Base too light

• Colour fade

• Restoring depth and tone

• Neutralising colour tone

• Colouring resistant hair

410

• Remove bands or seepage

• Remove artificial colour

• Restore depth and tone

Colour correction

For most colour correction services, you will either be removing colour (lightening) or darkening.

Most colour correction will also include some form of neutralising tone.

Removing colour

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Removing colour

There are 2 ways to remove colour from the hair.

These are:

• Oxidation (colour remover)

• Reduction (colour reducer)

Oxidation

A colour remover is a bleach-based product. A colour remover will be mixed with a low-level peroxide.

It is applied to the areas of the hair where colour needs to be removed ONLY.

The product effects the hair the same way any other bleached based product would and will lighten artificial colour, but also natural colour.

Oxidation

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Oxidation is the introduction of oxygen by using an oxidation-based colour remover, such as lightener (bleach). This will lift the artificial colour pigment but will also lighten the natural colour pigments. When removing colour with this method, it is not possible for the product to isolate the artificial colour molecules from the natural pigments.

The amount of pigmentation removed from the hair will depend on how long it is left on, and this must be carefully monitored. When lifting the artificial and natural pigments together, this can cause an uneven result and further applications may be required on darker patches if the condition allows.

The colour molecules are removed and lifted to leave colourless oxymelanin.

This form of colour remover is often known as a bleach bath and is usually applied to pre shampooed hair

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Colour reducer

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Colour reducers “reduce” the size of the colour molecules in the hair, allowing them to be removed from the hair.

The process is the opposite to the colouring process where the molecules swell inside the cortex.

Colour reducers ONLY work on artificial colour, and most will only work on indirect dyes (colours which need an activation to work)

You must make sure colour reducers are fully removed from the hair, otherwise when the new target shade is added to the hair, the peroxide can re-active the reduced molecules, causing the hair to revert back to the starting colour

Colour reducer

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Colour reducers contain the reducing agent hydrogen, which reduces the size of the molecules so they can be easily removed from the hair. This is the reverse process of colouring, where colour swells during oxidation process, trapping the colour in the hair.

A colour reducer works by entering the cortex, attaching itself to the artificial colour pigments and reducing the size of the colour molecule. More than one application may be required to achieve the desired results, depending on the depth that needs to be reduced. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions.

When using a reducer, some of the original colour molecules can lie dormant within the hair structure if not rinsed thoroughly, and could be oxidised by the next colour application, causing the hair to go darker again.

The choice of colour product therefore needs to be taken into consideration as the hair’s increased porosity and loss of elasticity, may cause the end colour result to appear darker than required.

Colour Reducer-Peroxide test

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When the colour reducer has been removed, a peroxide test may be performed following the manufacturer’s instructions. This is to check that the artificial colour molecules have been removed thoroughly.

Apply a weak solution of liquid hydrogen peroxide (3% or 10vol) through a strand of hair. If any colour molecules are remaining in the hair, then it will revert to the darker shade immediately.

If this happens, you will need to reapply the colour reducer. If there is no change in the colour of the hair you can continue with the application of the client’s target colour.

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How is the lightening curve used when removing colour

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When removing colour, you need to lift to the underlying tone of your target shade.

For example, if your client was a depth of a 4 and your target shade was a 6, you need to remove the colour until orange is seen.

(REMEMBER, if the target shade is a cool tone, you need to lift ½ a shade lighter)

Going darker

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Pre-pigmentation

When a client has light hair and wants to go dark, you need to ADD the underlying tones back into the hair. This is called PRE-PIGMENTATION.

General rule is, if you are going 2 depths darker or more, you need to pre-pig.

Without pre-pigmentation, colour can look khaki (green), patchy and will not last.

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