Colour correction
Colour correction
Learning objective
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Colour correction
Learning objective
Tell me everything you know about the lightening curve
The lightening curve
The lightening curve shows what underlying tone is exposed as we lighten hair.
Knowing the underlying tones of each depth is a key part of a successful colour correction
Colour correction
When colour correcting, we will normally be doing one of the following:
Lightening
Darkening
Lightening
Removing artificial colour
Removing artificial colour
There are 2 ways to remove artificial colour:
Reduction
Oxidation
Oxidation
Oxidation products are commonly referred to as Colour removers.
A colour remover is a bleach-based product and will be mixed with a low-level peroxide.
It is applied to the areas of the hair where colour needs to be removed ONLY.
The product effects the hair the same way any other bleached based product would and will lighten artificial colour, but also natural colour.
Oxidation
Lightening products mixed with hydrogen peroxide can act as a colour remover, sometimes referred to as a ‘bleach bath’.
Oxidation is the introduction of oxygen by using an oxidation-based colour remover, such as
lightener (bleach). This will lift the artificial colour pigment but will also affect or lighten the
natural colour pigments. When removing colour with this method, it is not possible for the
product to isolate the artificial colour molecules from the natural pigments.
The amount of pigmentation removed from the hair will depend on how long it is left on,
and this must be carefully monitored. When lifting the artificial and natural pigments
together, this can cause an uneven result and further applications may be required on
darker patches if the condition allows.
The colour molecules are removed and lifted to leave colourless oxymelanin.
Wella's colour remover formulation
Wella call their colour remover a MILD LIGHTENER.
Mix Ratio
1 part blondor:4 parts 1.9% pastel (1:4)
Application
Applied to dry hair (only areas where you want to remove artificial colour)
Development time
30 minutes. After 30 minutes scrap off and re-apply if more removal needed
Removal
Rinse, shampoo and then seal and care (herbal anti-oxidant)
Reduction- Colour reducer
Colour reducers “reduce” the size of the colour molecules in the hair, allowing them to be removed from the hair.
The process is the opposite to the colouring process where the molecules swell inside the cortex.
Colour reducers ONLY work on artificial colour, and most will only work on indirect dyes (colours which need an activation to work)
You must make sure colour reducers are fully removed from the hair, otherwise when the new target shade is added to the hair, the peroxide can re-active the reduced molecules, causing the hair to revert back to the starting colour
Reduction- Colour reducer
Colour reducers contain the reducing agent hydrogen, which reduces the size of the molecules so they can be easily removed from the hair. This is the reverse process of colouring, where colour swells during oxidation process, trapping the colour in the hair.
A colour reducer works by entering the cortex, attaching itself to the artificial colour pigments and reducing the size of the colour molecule. More than one application may be required to achieve the desired results, depending on the depth of tone that needs to be removed and the porosity of the hair. Always follow manufacturer’s instructions.
When artificial colour has been removed by a reduction process, care needs to be taken if applying another colour to meet the client’s requirements. When using a reducer, some of the original colour molecules can lie dormant within the hair structure, and could be oxidised by the next colour application, causing the hair to go darker again.
The choice of colour product therefore needs to be taken into consideration as the hair’s increased porosity and loss of elasticity, may cause the end colour result to appear darker than required.
Reduction- Colour reducer peroxide test
When the colour reducer has been removed, a peroxide test may be performed following the manufacturer’s instructions. This is to check that the artificial colour molecules have been removed thoroughly.
Apply a weak solution of liquid hydrogen peroxide (3% or 10vol) through a strand of hair. If any colour molecules are remaining in the hair, then it will revert to the darker shade immediately.
If this happens, you will need to reapply the colour reducer. If there is no change in the colour of the hair you can continue with the application of the client’s target colour.
Wella's colour reducer product
Slide text
How do you think we use the lightening curve when removing artificial colour?
Lightening curve- removing artificial colour
When removing colour, you need to lift to the underlying tone of your target shade. We use the lightening curve to identify what tone we should see for each depth level.
For example, if your client was a depth of a 4 and your target shade was a 6, you need to remove the colour until orange is seen.
(REMEMBER, if the target shade is a cool tone, you need to lift ½ a shade lighter)
Case study
Natural colour: 5/0
Artificial colour: 5/75 permanent
Target shade: 8/71
Notes:
Client has 1.5 inches of regrowth
Professionally applied regrowth colour every 6 weeks.
Rarely taken through to the ends
How are you going to achieve this colour?
10
minute
00
second
Case study- option 1
Apply colour renew and develop for 45 minutes
(2 levels of lift achieved)
2. Reapply colour renew 45 minutes
(2 levels of lift achieved)
Apply regrowth colour 8/71 KP with 12% weloxon
(the 12% will give us 3 levels of lift, taking the
natural colour from a 5 to an 8)
Once regrowth developed, remove and balance by using either 8/71 or 9/71 CT through mids-ends. Visually develop.
Case study- option 2
Apply mid lightener to the artificial colour and develop for up to 30 minutes.
(remember, the underlying tone of a level 8 is yellow, so once this has been achieved, the mild lightener needs to be removed).
Dry and reapply if underlying tone has not been achieved.
(Condition of hair must be checked before applying any additional applications)
Once yellow undertone achieved, apply regrowth colour 8/71 with 12%
Once developed, balance with either 8/71 or 9/71 Colour touch. Visually develop
Going darker
Restoring depth and tone
Pre pigmentation
Going darker-Pre pigmentation
When we lighten hair, we remove the natural underlying pigment. When a client wants to go darker, we need to ADD this underlying tone back into the hair. This is called PRE-PIGMENTATION.
General rule is, if you are going 2 depths darker or more, you need to pre-pig.
Without pre-pigmentation, colour can look khaki (green), patchy and will not last.
What do we use the lightening curve for when going darker?
The lightening curve- going darker
When we go darker, we must add underlying tone back into the hair which was lost through lightening.
We can use the lightening curve to identify which tone we must add back into the hair.
For example, if a clients artificial colour was a level 10 and they were darkening to a level 5, we must add red/orange back into the hair to get a true end result which will last
Case study
Natural colour: 6/0
Artificial colour: 10/1
Target shade: 6/07
Notes:
1 inch of regrowth
hair is porous through the last 3 inches of the hair
How will you achieve this colour?
10
minute
00
second
Case study- option 1
Pre pigmentation with perfecton. 10ml /3 10ml /43. Apply develop 10 minutes then dry in.
(As the hair is porous through the end, it would be advised to apply to the mids first and then the ends. You could also use a equaliser spray to even porosity)
Apply target shade of 6/07 CT with 1.9%
Case study- option 2
Pre pigmentation using colour touch filling. Using 8.73 and 9/03 CT with 1.9%. Apply and develop for up to 20 minutes
(As the hair is porous through the end, it would be advised to apply to the mids first and then the ends. You could also use a equaliser spray to even porosity)
Rinse and apply 6/07 CT with 1.9%.
Colour correction
When colour correcting, we will normally be doing one of the following:
Lightening
Darkening
The colour correction may also include:
Removing tone
Neutralising tone
Case study
Natural shade: 7/0
Artificial shade: 66/46
Target shade: 6/7
Notes:
Hair recently coloured so minimal regrowth
10
minute
00
second
Case study- option 1
Apply 6/02 throughout the head to neutralise the red.
Case study- option 1
Apply mild lightener to the artificial colour and develop for up to 30 minutes. Rinse and assess
Apply 6/07 IF enough of the red tone has been removed OR apply 6/02 to neutralise the remaining red.
If the colour is too flat, a 6/7 colour touch could then be applied over the top
Case study- option 2
Apply Colour renew for 30 minutes, remove and assess
Apply 6/07 IF flat colour has been achieved using the colour renew OR apply 6/02 to neutralise the remaining red.
If the colour is too flat, a 6/7 colour touch could then be applied over the top
Slide text
Neutralising tone- Tertiary colours
Remember, if your colour does not sit within the basic colour wheel, you may need to look at tertiary colour to help neutralise tone.
